Chef

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One of the most common question I get asked is, how long does it take me to shape "a" surfboard? Not for custom orders but just the act itself of shaping. 

Sometimes it's hard for the person asking to grasp that there is more to building a board then the step of shaping foam, and especially  building a brand with it.

Shaping foam is like cooking food.

Cooking food is just a critical part of a restaurant establishment , but so many other steps go along with it. 

All steps exciting and fun if done right.

Bits and pieces

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Super excited to try this board out. Couple of things to make the outlines work better in subpar waves, better rocker for speed but keeping maneuverability  , a better rail for slower waves, a different tail block for release.

Been learning these things in bits and pieces but this board , I designed it so all the pieces were put together.

Board worked good , not bad, but not all time amazing either. In all fairness need to try it again , as the test session was short on this one.

 

 

Burgers

Got a little shaper testing done.

My personal surfing has been sketchy with the footwork on my board , from lack of water time, but got to test a couple of rockers for junk mushy waves.  Felt good to surf though.

Here is a quick raw clip from 2 different spots. Waves a quick distance from my house , weak and mushy but surfable, perfect for testing boards.

1st wave: ( board 1, w/ medium kolohe fins) board very relaxed rocker but feeling little off sometimes on the turns and fit in wave, but board felt dependable. 

2nd , 3rd , wave:  ( board 2, w/ medium kolohe fins) another fresh board , rocker felt pretty good, but only caught a handful of waves so need to try it again. Rocker felt slick and fast with good curve but drivey. Actual board felt a bit small even though liters are same as board 1.

4th, 5th , 6th , 7th wave: (board 3, w/ med merrick fins) board is a fairly standard board for head high waves, felt like something I'm use too, but a touch grabby and slow reaction for these waves. Wrong board for time and place. So can't knock it to hard.

Learned quite a few things but this is a quick summary and clip.

 

Authenticity

Been listening to some interviews and enjoying the ones where people are authentic.  So here is my authenticity for the week. Designed , these 4 boards, fully shaped, the 3 on top for a promo deal that fell through, and 1 on bottom was a mistake of design on my part. Stings cause I really went overtime to get these boards done, and it cost some money.  Highs and lows of business. I learned from these boards here on a few things business , and production related.

Been listening to some interviews and enjoying the ones where people are authentic. 

So here is my authenticity for the week. Designed , these 4 boards, fully shaped, the 3 on top for a promo deal that fell through, and 1 on bottom was a mistake of design on my part.

Stings cause I really went overtime to get these boards done, and it cost some money. 

Highs and lows of business. I learned from these boards here on a few things business , and production related.