Sleeping on my chest. Not to many more years he will be doing this, so trying to soak it up.
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Custom work material.
Michel Bourez backfoot leg drag tube stall at the Fiji comp, sick!
Evening sesh with my boy Jordan last week. 📷 @mikeeetoe
Technology is pretty mental when you get a notification on your phone one of your fav bands is playing and get a live feed straight to your phone.
About to get into a new industry space, lot of multi tasking going on. Everything getting scheduled out, super excited.
Quick pool sesh with this guy.
First day of preschool.
Fun session this past weekend with the crew from Diamond Head Surfboards.
One of the most common question I get asked is, how long does it take me to shape "a" surfboard? Not for custom orders but just the act itself of shaping.
Sometimes it's hard for the person asking to grasp that there is more to building a board then the step of shaping foam, and especially building a brand with it.
Shaping foam is like cooking food.
Cooking food is just a critical part of a restaurant establishment , but so many other steps go along with it.
All steps exciting and fun if done right.
Worked late into the night, Ryker boy wanted to chill by dad, brought his pillow and crashed out.
Super excited to try this board out. Couple of things to make the outlines work better in subpar waves, better rocker for speed but keeping maneuverability , a better rail for slower waves, a different tail block for release.
Been learning these things in bits and pieces but this board , I designed it so all the pieces were put together.
Board worked good , not bad, but not all time amazing either. In all fairness need to try it again , as the test session was short on this one.
Got a little shaper testing done.
My personal surfing has been sketchy with the footwork on my board , from lack of water time, but got to test a couple of rockers for junk mushy waves. Felt good to surf though.
Here is a quick raw clip from 2 different spots. Waves a quick distance from my house , weak and mushy but surfable, perfect for testing boards.
1st wave: ( board 1, w/ medium kolohe fins) board very relaxed rocker but feeling little off sometimes on the turns and fit in wave, but board felt dependable.
2nd , 3rd , wave: ( board 2, w/ medium kolohe fins) another fresh board , rocker felt pretty good, but only caught a handful of waves so need to try it again. Rocker felt slick and fast with good curve but drivey. Actual board felt a bit small even though liters are same as board 1.
4th, 5th , 6th , 7th wave: (board 3, w/ med merrick fins) board is a fairly standard board for head high waves, felt like something I'm use too, but a touch grabby and slow reaction for these waves. Wrong board for time and place. So can't knock it to hard.
Learned quite a few things but this is a quick summary and clip.
Commercial audition life for Mila James.
Grocery store after surfing and being hungry , never a good idea, start buying everything.
Testing some rockers in some weak waves. Perfect way to really dial in the details.