Time is going by fast. Trying to make sure to be physically and mentally there for my kids.
2hrs massage therapy last night. Pushing for the last 20% recovery.
Little sequence clip from surfing some stormy surf this weekend. Stoked to be 80% better from injury. Still got a good 20% to go. At least I can go to the lip again more often, with less fear of injury pain. Trying to stay stoked and positive.
Analyzing boards. Watching Kaito Kino on a 5'10 I shaped him earlier in the year, riding it in the Triple Crown the other day at Haleiwa.
New is on the way.
Quick sesh on the sandbar.
Keeping the wifey happy. Mall life. New times because of E-Commerce, been listening to a lot of info on this subject, some interesting thoughts and forcast for different industry segments and where they may be headed.
Health week. This smoothie is beaming with some good stuff.
I play with some friends Fantasy Surfer. I'm the worst cause I do passion picks and forget to change my team. For Trestles Contest finished 12th in the world, stoked. Pretty much bomb all the other comps though.
Got a gift of 3 x 90 min float tank sessions.
Been wanting to do this for a long time!
Float tanks or sensory deprivation tanks are a tank with no light and water , water is same temperature as body, the water buoyancy is at a place that you float perfect so you can breath but feel no gravity, you see nothing, hear nothing, and feel nothing. You can go in naked too. All sensory is gone, your floating in space.
All you are left with us your mind.
I heard amazing things about this, clarity, and a meditation so deep.
Super excited and a touch nervous. Peeling back the layers of your mind.
Ready for some next level mental game.
Trying out this calcium. Last one I had wasn't as effective as it might seem.
Kids broke the Xbox, forgot we had a blueray DVD player in our bedroom that can play regular DVD's for some reason.
Doing rehab exercise while watching Taylor Steele flicks.
It's rare and only 2nd time this has happened.
Surfed some smaller size waves then recent weeks and grabbed a different board for it. I was psyched because I wanted to ride this board that I rode once so far and it went real good! A newer design.
While surfing I was tripping out, that the board was much looser and free then I remembered, and it was actually designed to be a smaller board but have lots of positive hold and strong feeling of attack. I thought it was because I have been riding round pins and a hair longer board lately that now this one felt so free?
After I was puzzled for a few days, and wondering why the board got a bit beat up on 2nd session, and why didn't this new design work like the first time?
Couple days later, the board was sitting on the side and I was tripping, it was so free and loose, and so many pressures for just 2 short surfs?
Looked at the stringer writing. Come to find out , somehow I took the wrong board to surf. Casualties of testing all white boards.
Session at Fysio Hawaii.